Jan 22

A Return to Purity: Navigating the Shift from Synthetic to Botanical

By Kathalin S. Zwerenz

Introduction

Smelling good is something all humans desire, and we naturally prefer an environment that smells pleasant too. Whether it is our homes, clothes, or cars, we are attracted to beautiful and fragrant aromas. Today, a massive industry exists to provide these scents to a society wanting to camouflage less appealing smells or simply enhance its surroundings.

This demand has led to a vast array of scented products: perfumes, colognes, air fresheners, soaps, shampoos, makeup, sunscreen, and even scented feminine hygiene products. On average, adults in Europe use approximately seven personal care products daily and thirteen every week—statistics that are very similar in the United States.

Most of these products contain complex mixtures of synthetic and natural fragrance chemicals. Crucially, in many countries, laws do not require companies to provide a full list of ingredients. In the US, for instance, companies may use the catch-all term “fragrance” as a substitute for listing detailed individual components. Because these products are designed to release scents into the air, they effectively release chemicals that can affect human health in various ways.

Main Chemical Constituents of Concern

Many ingredients in our personal care products remain unlisted on labels depending on local regulations. Regardless of whether they are listed, these chemicals remain in the products. Commonly used ingredients of concern include:

Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs)

VOCs are carbon-based chemicals that easily vaporize into gases at room temperature. While some are classified as toxic, others can become toxic when oxidized in the air. Examples include solvents like acetone and isopropyl alcohol, fragrances containing phthalates or limonene, and known carcinogens like formaldehyde and benzene.

Because VOCs are found in so many items—from hairsprays and perfumes to cleansers and wood preservatives—they can easily accumulate indoors. This leads to prolonged exposure, particularly from products applied to the face or neck. An EPA study found that levels of common organic pollutants are often two to five times higher inside homes than outside. Health side effects include eye, nose, and throat irritation, headaches, nausea, and potential damage to the liver, kidneys, and central nervous system.

Phthalates

Originally developed to make plastics more durable, phthalates have been used for decades to help fragrances last longer. They are prevalent in cosmetics, deodorants, hair products, and lotions. Because they do not chemically bind to products, they easily leach out, leading to exposure through inhalation, ingestion, or skin contact.

Phthalates are particularly known for their endocrine-disrupting effects. Studies have linked chronic exposure to negative long-term impacts on pregnancy, child development, and reproductive systems. Exposure has also been linked to obesity, hypertension, and various endocrine disorders.

Aldehydes

Aldehydes are a category of VOCs used in perfumes to add unique, long-lasting scents. While some natural aldehydes found in essential oils (like rose or pine) possess beneficial antimicrobial or calming properties, synthetic versions can be highly toxic. Synthetic aldehydes are highly reactive with biological molecules and can disrupt biological activities, causing respiratory irritation, hepatotoxicity, and neurodegenerative diseases.

Synthetic Musks

Used to mimic natural musk in perfumes and detergents, these man-made chemicals are rarely listed on labels. Older varieties, such as nitro and polycyclic musks, bioaccumulate in the environment and human bodies. They have been detected in human blood, breast milk, and umbilical cords. Health risks include endocrine disruption, reproductive toxicity, and neurotoxicity.

Parabens

Parabens are artificial preservatives used since the 1920s to prevent the growth of bacteria and mold in cosmetics, foods, and medicines. They are endocrine-disrupting chemicals with estrogenic effects that can harm fertility, increase cancer risks, and affect thyroid health. Studies have found parabens abundantly in urine samples, and they may accumulate in body fat tissue.

Summary of Risks

These chemicals impact our health often without our knowledge. We inhale them simply by being near someone wearing perfume or in a room with an automatic air freshener. This form of air pollution can cause respiratory issues, neurological symptoms like migraines and dizziness, allergies, and endocrine disruptions.

Healthy Alternatives

To avoid synthetic fragrances and protect your health, consider the following steps:

  • Read Labels Carefully: Be wary of products listing “fragrance” or “perfume,” as this indicates hidden ingredients.
  • Choose Natural Extracts: Opt for products that explicitly use essential oils or natural plant extracts.
  • Question “Unscented” Claims: Some fragrance-free products use chemicals to mask odors; always verify the full ingredient list.
  • Use Natural Cleaning Agents: Switch to baking soda and white vinegar for cleaning, and houseplants to freshen and purify the air.
  • Improve Ventilation: Increase fresh air flow in your home to prevent the accumulation of toxic compounds.
  • Use Air Purifiers: Invest in high-quality air purifiers to improve indoor air quality.
  • Advocate for Healthy Workplaces: If automatic air fresheners are used at your work, suggest healthier alternatives like humidifiers and essential oils.
  • Make Your Own Products: Use simple, natural recipes to create your own body creams, deodorants, and perfumes using essential oils, hydrosols and macerates.

Sources and links

*1https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2022/06/22/cosmetics-tipped-as-essentials-for-daily-life-european-study-reveals/

*1https://www.driveresearch.com/market-research-company-blog/skincare-statistics-and-trends/

https://www.ewg.org/research/survey-finds-use-personal-care-products-2004-what-means-your-health

https://www.lung.org/blog/vocs-personal-care-products https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0195925510001125?via%3Dihub

https://www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/what-are-volatile-organic-compounds-vocs

*2https://www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/volatile-organic-compounds-impact-indoor-air-quality

*3 https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8157593/#sec8-healthcare-09-00603v

*4 https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0013935122005217

https://www.nrdc.org/stories/fighting-phthalates

*5 https://www.mdpi.com/2673-401X/5/4/21

https://mmsl.cz/pdfs/mms/2014/04/03.pdf

https://naturalnicheperfume.com/blog/aldehydes-in-perfume-are-they-harming-your-health

*6 https://www.safecosmetics.org/chemicals/synthetic-musks/

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0269749123008953 https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC1253742/ https://www.safecosmetics.org/chemicals/synthetic-musks/#end23

https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/10643389.2023.2217068

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0048969709005002

https://www.ewg.org/what-are-parabens

https://health.clevelandclinic.org/what-are-parabens

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10051690/#abstract1

*7https://orbasics.com/de/blogs/stories/why-is-fragrance-bad?srsltid=AfmBOopNai88YGIIDOQPi_ueXyJrck9AI7E_VC0oJgQww9-AGT-5Mfj0

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC5773620/#Abs1

https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6874985/#abstract1https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0360132316304334#:~:text=Air%20freshener%20exposures%2C%20even%20at%20low%20levels%2C,earache%2C%20neurological%20problems%2C%20and%20ventricular%20fibrillation%20%28